Friday, August 9, 2013

Budapest and, finally, back home!

This will be my last post in this blog, as I am now back home in the USA after having traveled for ten weeks. I spent three days in Budapest this week to close out my journey with one last city before returning to Vienna for one night and flying home. This trip went much better than I had expected, especially never having traveled continuously for longer than a week on my own before. In all, I visited 22 cities in eight countries over the course of ten weeks and completed a 5 credit course. I am very lucky to have been able to go on such a journey and probably will never be able to do anything quite as extensive as it for a long time. I am exhausted now and glad to be back in the US, where the water and bathrooms are free and the milk lasts longer than four days. I hope to be able to visit Europe again one day, but for now it is back to reality...

Thanks for reading!

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Budapest:

It was well worth the trip to spend more time in another city which had been behind the Iron Curtain. Budapest is about the same size as Vienna by population and much larger than Bratislava. They do not use the Euro, however. This made the experience more interesting because when I got there I had to withdraw 20 000 Forints; the exchange rate was 290 Forints to 1 Euro.

Is it going clockwise or counterclockwise? That depends on which type of clock you are referencing. The second major difference I ran into in Budapest: the clocks keep time in the opposite direction relative to ours. This analog clock was in the hostel; luckily I did not have to rely on these.


I spent the morning of my first full day in the city walking around the northeast side of Budapest with two Brits I met at the hostel.

They actually have one piece of the Berlin Wall here. Of course, it holds quite a lot of meaning for the Hungarians as well; all countries who were under Soviet occupation saw similar injustices.

And next to the piece of the Berlin Wall it took me a minute to realize what I was looking at: the Iron Curtain. Only symbolically, of course, unlike the actual section of the Berlin Wall. How interesting...

Up close on one side, the significance of the Iron Curtain captured in English.

Cold War memorials aside, we made our way to Heroes' Square.


Did I mention it was really hot that day?

After Heroes' Square we made our way towards a castle...

Vajdahunyad Castle

This frightening fellow sat inside the castle courtyard

Anonymus Etterem

A short swinging break for Sean, Sophie, and myself. I'm pretty sure we were being judged by the locals.


That afternoon we made our way south to the city center for what my friends might call a 'proper' walking tour of Budapest.

A view of part of the Buda side of the city, from the Pest side looking across the Danube.

Our tour guide told us that this little statue was the first to be built after the fall of the USSR whose purpose was not to represent power or violence like that of Soviet statues.

Like many European cities, people put love locks on fencing. However, in Budapest one doesn't see these on the bridges themselves. This little structure is about a five minute walk from the Danube, giving the lovers time to reconsider their commitment before throwing the key in the river.

St. Stephans Basilica

We eventually made our way up to the top of the Buda side of the city at the Buda Castle, where there was a great panoramic view of the Pest side.

Matthias Church

From the west side of the river we got another view of Parliament.


On my last day in Budapest our group hit up another walking tour. This one was devoted to detailing the history of Soviet communism in Hungary. It was especially informative because one of the guides had lived in Budapest while it was under Russian control until the USSR fell when he was 14 years old.

First, we happened upon a Michael Jackson shrine...

A building from the communist era. There are many of these buildings throughout the city because much of Budapest was destroyed during WWII and the Soviets were there to help 'rebuild'. According to our guides, there are still loads of these buildings around the country; about 30% of people in Budapest still live in them.

Another ugly example of communist architecture. These buildings are absolutely horrible, lacking any decent degree of ventilation, air conditioning, insulation, or privacy. Apparently the technology for the buildings used by the Soviets was sold to them by the Danes, who had developed it as only temporary housing to be used while rebuilding.

An entrance to a bunker built by city officials in secret. It is supposed to be something like 15 stories deep.

No, not music television. The M stands for Magyar, which means Hungarian. The building was used as a stock exchange at one point.

Nearing the end of the walking tour, we arrived at the Soviet's WWII memorial. For protection against the Hungarians it has a fence, demanded by the Russians using a threat of oil embargo. The US embassy is right next door to this memorial as well.

Only a couple years ago the US erected a statue of Ronald Reagan in the center of Budapest, where he faces the aforementioned Soviet memorial. I almost apologized that our government built our own memorial in their city, but the guide said that the Hungarians don't mind.

This bridge is dripping with symbolism. In the middle, a statue of a former Hungarian president who had been tortured and killed by the Soviets stands facing away from the USSR memorial and towards parliament. People are supposed to cross the slippery, uneven bridge in that direction to symbolize moving away from corrupt communism and towards democracy. The Hungarians are getting there, but it will take many more generations.



We were shown buildings which still have bullet holes from the failed Hungarian uprising of 1958.


Finally, our toured finished up at a ruin bar. Basically, old buildings which were used as offices, groceries, or anything normal have been converted successfully into trendy bars. Inside this one there was a rather odd room whose significance I do not understand; see the pictures below.




I really enjoyed my visit to Budapest and was pleasantly surprised by all that it had to offer. As is the case with most European cities, it is packed with history and culture. In my experience, the people are good and the city is moving forward. There is still much progress to be made, but I am sure it is strides ahead of most of Eastern Europe. That is about all I have to share about Budapest off the top of my head; it was definitely worth the visit!

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Day Trips in Vienna II

As of last Friday I am finally and thankfully done with summer lab. After five weeks of lab and twelve reports I was very exhausted and spent about half of my last weekend just sleeping to recover. The course took up quite a lot of my time such that I still don't feel like I have properly toured Vienna, but one would have to live there for years to see everything anyway. This week I have been doing a three day excursion in Budapest and then I will go back to Vienna tomorrow for one more day of touristing. Finally on Friday I have a flight back to Chicago to complete my ten weeks of travel. Tomorrow I will post about Budapest and after that will be my last post to finish this blog.

We took a couple more day trips as a group in the last two weeks of class. I also took some time to explore more of Vienna on my own; below I have posted a little about this.

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July 24th: Waste Incineration, Biomass Power, and Sparkling Wine

Our day trip included a couple of interesting tours of environmentally friendly waste disposal and power generation. We began our second to last group trip with a tour of Vienna's waste incineration facility in the morning. It is of course not particularly glamorous but it is interesting to see what is done with waste. It was nice to know that not everything goes straight to a landfill but instead can at least be used for energy. I forgot the exact power output of the plant, but all of the waste is used to run two turbines that provides electricity for a sizeable portion of the local population.

This is the area where the waste is initially unloaded and piled up. It sits I believe on average for two weeks before being sent off to burn so that it is dehydrated. This makes it quite the explosion hazard, being a dusty chamber filled with highly combustible material. Due to this the operator's job is probably the most dangerous in the plant. He basically operates a giant claw crane to evenly distribute the material, like an arcade game.


Here is a panoramic view of the industrial area from the top of the plant.

The ash product being conveyed away from the incinerator. It will either be used as construction material or be buried underground in Germany where there is room; this is much better than throwing plastic in a landfill anyway!

Interestingly, they made a scale model of the plant.


After the waste incinerator plant we went next door to a biomass power plant, where they use woodchips to generate a generous amount of power.

Our tour guide in front of one of the models of turbines they use. Hot compressed air is used to spin the turbines at this plant. Multiple sizes are used depending on the thermal quality of the air; heat is exchanged and air is recompressed and sent to successively smaller turbines to get the most energy out of the process.


One of the generators.



Another turbine; I want to say this one generates 30 megawatts, but don't quote me on that.


With two industrial tours out of the way we then went on to the cultural component of our day: a tour of the Schlumberger sparkling winery. One doesn't call it champagne because it is not produced in or near Champagne, but apart from that technicality it is the same.


The cellar is technically underground, but we didn't descend any stairs. It is built into the side of a hill; as one walks into the cellar the ground above rises to 8 meters high.





We were shown how to 'rattle', in which the sparkling wine bottles are shaken and turned to redistribute the yeast as it is fermented and carbonated.


And at the end there was a sparkling wine tasting component in which I had two glasses of the sparkling wine. This was a blessing and a curse, as at the time I still had two reports to write. It's too bad these day trips weren't on Fridays...

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August 1st: Biogas and Lake Neusiedler

Our last day trip was more abbreviated than the others. The group from Clemson University and NC State had left the previous weekend so our group was cut down to 11 students. We started later for and spent about two hours touring a facility where methane is produced from waste using anaerobic bacteria. One of the professors, Dr. Harasek, actually had worked on a few projects at the facilities and showed us around. It was another example of a modern method of putting humanity's waste to better use than burying it.

Dr. Harasek giving us an overview of the facility.

The area where the waste fuel is dropped off.

At the time they had been given a batch of a type of soda which had been mislabeled during production. Liquid sugar is especially good fuel for the hungry bacteria!

The shack where the trash is unpackaged.

As soon as I walked past a certain point I hit what felt like a wall of an absolutely putrid smell due to the way in which the wind was blowing. It brought me back to the good times at the waste treatment facility.

Fermenting tanks






Air Compressor



Finally the relaxing part of the day: a short bus ride over to Lake Neusiedler for an afternoon in the sun.


Christian booked us an hour-long boat tour of the lake.

It was interesting to hear that this lake is only 2 meters deep at a maximum; it is very murky and not very far out from the beach there is about a meter of water on top a meter of muck. Regardless, it was refreshing to swim on such a hot day (about 90 degrees Fahrenheit out).






That evening we had our farewell dinner with the professors and some of the graduate students at a restaurant which served all varieties of crepes. A fun celebration for the successful completion of lab; I will miss the faculty.


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August 4th: Schoenbrunn and the Zoo

With all of the other students gone last Sunday I spent the afternoon in Vienna on my own, so I decided to go to Schoenbrunn one more time with nice weather to see the gardens and, why not, the zoo.

As my month metro pass had expired, I decided to walk the 6 km over there in the heat rather than buying a pass. It seemed like a good idea, but probably wasn't worth it...



The courtyard in front of the palace again.



Going behind the palace for the first time, I realized what I had missed out on when I went here on the rainy day of June 4th. Up on the hill: the Gloriette.




I had time to tour the Vienna zoo for about 2.5 hours. It boasts being the oldest zoo in the world.


This panda was too busy eating and didn't want to face the camera, unfortunately...



Central pavilion of the zoo



This little guy knew that it was photo time.








After the zoo had closed I walked back through the palace gardens, this time taking a different route up to the Gloriette.

The side of the Gloriette

Up close in front of the Gloriette




A view of the palace and the surrounding area from the Gloriette.



This treck and one more day in Vienna tomorrow will definitely make my visit feel more complete!